PEWARNAAN

  1. MATERI PEMBELAJARAN

–    Jenis warna sintetis          :  Napthol, Indigosol, Rapid, Prosion, Remasol
–    Sifat-Sifat warna sintetis :
– Napthol           :  warna kuat, terdiri dari AS sebagai dasar dan garam sebagai  pembangki
– Indigosol         :  warna cerah mengkilap bisa untuk celup dan colet
– Rapid               :  gabungan dari napthol dan garam diazo, hanya baik untuk colet
– Prosion                     :  warna mencolok, tidak tahan lama
–  Remasol          :  warna terang, tidak tahan lama

  • Komposisi warna sintetis :
    – Napthol  1 :  garam
    – Indigosol 1:  Natrium Nitrit 2
    – Bahan pembantu Napthol = TRO 1/3 Napthol, costic ½ Napthol
    – Bahan pembantu Indigosol   =  TRO untuk membantu penyerapan kain, Nitrit dan HCl sebagai pembangkit
    – Bahan pembantu Rapid         =  Costic soda, asam cuka dan HCL
    – Bahan pembantu Remasol    =  Costic dan waterglass
  1. Cara mewarna :
  • Tehnik mewarna meliputi  :  – Celup     – Cole      – Usa
  • Zat warna naphtol
    – Zat warna naptol terdiri dari komponen naptol sebagai komponen dasar
    dan komponen pembangkit warna yaitu garam diazonium atau disebut
    garam naptol. Naptol yang banyak dipakai dalam pembatikan antara lain:
    – Naptol AS-G – Naptol AS-Lb
    – Naptol AS-BO – Naptol AS-D
    – Naptol AS – Naptol AS.OL
    – Naptol AS-BR – Naptol AS.BS
    – Naptol AS-GR
  • Garam diazonium yang dipakai dalam pembatikan antara lain:
  • Garam Kuning GC Garam Bordo GP
  • Garam Orange GC Garam Violet B
  • Garam Scarlet R Garam Blue BB
  • Garam Scarlet GG Garam Blue B
  • Garam Red 3 GL Garam Black B
  • Garam Red B
  • Cara mewarna untuk 1 meter kain :
  • Resep pencelupan zat warna naptol: Resep pembangkit warna:
  • Zat warna Naptol 5 gram /liter Garam Napthol 10 gram/L
  • Kustik soda 2,5 gram/liter Air dingin 1 liter
  • Air panas 1 liter
    Cara pewarnaan:
    – Larutkan zat warna naptol dan kustik soda dengan air panas.
    – Tambahkan air dingin sampai jumlah larutan 2 liter
    – Celupkan kain kedalam larutan TRO terlebih dahulu dan tiriskan.
    – Celupkan kain kedalam larutan zat warna ± 15-30 menit kemudian ditiriskan.
    – Larutkan garam naptol ke dalam air dingin sebanyak 2 Liter. kain yang sudah dicelup dimasukkan kedalam larutan tersebut ± 15 menit.
    – kain dicuci bersih.

pewarnaan

 Hasil pewarnaan dengan napthol

  • Zat warna indigosol
    Zat warna Indigosol atau Bejana Larut adalah zat warna yang ketahanan lunturnya baik, berwarna rata dan cerah. Zat warna ini dapat dipakai secara pecelupan dan coletan . Warna dapat timbul setelah dibangkitkan dengan Natrium Nitrit dan Asam/ Asam sulfat atau Asam florida.
  • Jenis warna Indigosol antara lain:
  • Indigosol Yellow Indigosol Green IB
  • Indigosol Yellow JGK Indigosol Blue 0 4 B
  • Indigosol Orange HR Indigosol Grey IBL
  • Indigosol Pink IR Indigosol Brown IBR
  • Indigosol Violet ARR Indigosol Brown IRRD
  • Indigosol Violet 2R Indigosol Violet IBBF
  • Resep pencelupan z.w. Indigosol : Resep pembangkit warna =
  • Zat warna Indigosol 10 gram /Liter HCl 10 gram/L
  • Natrium nitrit 10 gram/Liter Air dingin 1 Liter
  • Air panas 1 Liter

Cara pewarnaan:
– Larutkan zat warna Indigo dan natrium nitrit dengan air panas. Tambahkan air dingin sesuai dengan kebutuhan
– Tambahkan air dingin sampai jumlah larutan 2 Liter.
– Celupkan kain ke dalam larutan TRO terlebih dahulu dan tiriskan.
– Celupkan kain ke dalam larutan zat warna ± 30 menit
– Angkat kain tersebut dan jemur di bawah sinar matahari/diangin-anginkan.
– Dibangkitkan warnanya dengan merendam di dalam larutan HCl selama ± 1 menit, sehingga warnanya timbul, selanjutnya kain dicuci sampai bersih

warna-indigsl

                                                                  Hasil pewarnaan dengan indigosol

  • Zat warna rapid

Zat warna rapid biasa dipakai untuk coletan jenis rapid fast. Zat warna ini adalah campuran komponen naphtol dan garam diazonium yang distabilkan, biasanya paling banyak dipakai rapid merah, karena warnanya cerah dan tidak ditemui di kelompok indigosol.
– Resep zat warna rapid (untuk colet):

  • Zat Warna Rapid 5 gram
  • TRO 7,5 cc
  • Kostik soda 6 gram
  • Air panas 100 cc
    Cara pewarnaan dengan pencoletan:
    – Larutkan zat warna rapid dengan air panas kemudian dinginkan.
    – Larutan zat warna dikuaskan pada kain yang sudah dibatik sesuai warna yang direncanakan, kemudian dianginanginkan.
    – Fiksasi menggunakan larutan waterglass dengan dikuaskan, kemudian diangin-anginkan.
    – Diulang 3 kali selanjutnya kain dicuci sampai bersih.

 

  • Zat warna reaktif

Zat warna reaktif bisa digunakan untuk pencelupan dan pencapan (printing). Zat warna reaktif berdasarkan cara pemakaiannya dapat digolongkan menjadi dua, yaitu: reaktif dingin dan reaktif panas. Untuk zat warna reaktif dingin salah satunya adalah zat warna procion, dengan nama dagang Procion MX, yaitu zat warna yang mempunyai kereaktifan tinggi dan dicelup pada suhu rendah. Zat warna reaktif termasuk zat warna yang larut dalam air dan mengadakan reaksi dengan serat selulosa, sehingga zat warna reaktif tersebut merupakan bagian dari serat. Oleh karena itu sifat-sifat tahan luntur warna dan tahan sinarnya sangat baik.

  • Nama dagang zat warna teraktif, sebagai berikut:
    – Procion (produk dari I.C.I) Drimarine (produk Sandoz)
    – Cibacron (produk Ciba Geigy) Primazine (produk BASF)
    – Remazol (produk Hoechst) Levafix (produk Bayer)
  • Resep Pencelupan:
  • Berat bahan a gram
  • Vlot 1 : 40
  • Air 40 x a CC
  • Garam dapur 30 – 40 gram/ L
  • Soda abu 10 -15 gram/ L
  • TRO 1 gram / L
  • Waktu–suhu 55 menit – 270 C
  • Cuci dingin
  • Cara pewarnaan:
  • Zat warna,TRO dan Matexil dilarutkan dengan air dingin, aduk sampai rata.
  • Kain dibasahi dengan TRO kemudian ditiriskan.
  • Celupkan kedalam larutan zat warna diamkan selama 15 menit, angkat kain tambahkan soda abu aduk sampai larut, kemudian pencelupan dilanjutkan sampai waktu yang ditentukan.
  • Tiriskan dan keringkan tanpa panas matahari langsung.
  • Fiksasi dilanjutkan dengan pencucian.
  • Resep Colet / Kuas :
    – Zat Warna Remazol 3,5 gram
    – Matexil PAL 5 gram
    – Air dingin 491,5 CC
  • Cara Pewarnaan dengan kuas:
    – Zat warna dan Matexil dilarutkan dengan air dingin, aduk sampai rata.
    – Kain dibasahi dengan TRO kemudian ditiriskan bentangkan pada spanram diperkuat dengan paku pines.
    – Celetkan zat warna menggunakan kuas sampai rata.
    – Tiriskan dan keringkan tanpa panas matahari langsung.
    – Fiksasi dilanjutkan dengan pencucian.
  • Resep fiksasi ada 2 cara:
  • Cara I (menggunakan fixanol)
  • Berat bahan gram
  • Vlot 1 : 40
  • Air 40 x a gram
  • Fixanol 2 x zat warna
  • Waktu – suhu 15 menit, 300 C
  • Kain yang sudah diwarna dan kering, fiksasi kedalam larutan fixanol dengan direndam selama 15 menit, kemudian cuci dan keringkan.
  • Cara II (menggunakan waterglass)
  • Waterglass 1 kg
  • Kostik soda 10 gram
  • Soda abu 25 gram
  • Air 500 CC

– Larutkan kostik soda dan soda abu pada ember plastik, waterglass dilarutkan sedikit demi sedikit dan aduk sampai rata, dikuaskan pada kain yang sudah diwarna. Setelah diolesi waterglass kemudian pad-batch dengan cara digulung dan masukkan ke dalam plastik selama 4 – 10 jam.
– Penggulungan dalam keadaan basah. setelah Pad-Pad selesai, plastik dibuka dan kain dicuci dengan air mengalir sampai tidak licin lagi, keringkan atau untuk batik dilanjutkan dengan perebusan.

warna-reaktif

Hasil pewarnaan dengan zat warna reaktif

  • Zat warna indanthrene

Zat warna indanthrene normal termasuk golongan zat warna bejana yang tidak larut dalam air. proses pencelupannya tidak perlu penambahan elektrolit karena mempuyai daya serap yang tinggi. Pemakaian reduktor dan alkali banyak dan dicelup pada suhu (40-60°C).

  • Contoh zat warna Indanthrene :
  • Helanthrene Yellow GC MP
  • Helanthrene Orange RK MP
  • Helanthrene Brilian Pink RS MP
  • Helanthrene Blue RCL MP
  • Helanthrene Green B MP
  • Helanthrene Brown BK MP
  • Resep zat warna :
  • Berat bahan a gram
  • Vlot 1 : 40
  • air 40 x a CC
  • Zat warna bejana 1 – 3 %
  • Kostik soda 380 Be 17 – 25 CC/L
  • Natrium hidrosulfit 3 -6 gram/L
  • TRO 1 gram /L
  • Suhu – waktu 400 C – 60 menit
  • Resep oksidasi :
  • Berat bahan a gram
  • Vlot 1 : 40
  • Air 40 x a gram
  • H2O2 6 cc /L
  • Asam cuka 2 cc /L
  • Suhu-waktu 400 C – 15 menit
  • Cara pewarnaan :
    – Kain ditimbang kemudiaan celup kedalam larutan TRO dan tiriskan.
    – Timbang zat warna dan obat bantunya, sesuai resep untuk pencelupan.
    – Celupkan kain yang akan diwarna selama 60 menit, kemudian cuci dingin dan oksidasi      sesuai resep.
    – Setelah selesai segera cuci dingin dan cuci panas selama 15 menit, cuci dingin dan keringkan.
  • Zat warna pigmen

– Adalah zat warna yang tidak larut dalam segala macam pelarut. Zat warna ini sebetulnya tidak        mempunyai afinitas terhadap segala macam serat. Pemakaiannya untuk bahan tekstil memerlukan suatu zat pengikat yang membantu pengikatan zat warna tersebut dengan serat.pengikat yang digunakan yaitu emulsi (campuran dari emulsifier, air dan minyak tanah) yang dicampur dengan putaran tinggi. Zat warna pigmen banyak digunakan untuk cetak saring, tidak layak digunakan sebagai pencelupan.

  • Contoh nama dagang zat warna pigmen :
  • Acramin (Bayer)
  • Helizarin (BASF)
  • Sandye ((Sanyo)Pristofix (Sandoz)
  • Alcilan (I.C.I)

                               

 

 

 

 

 

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